Stories: Destination Croatia | ECO On The Go | Adventure Republic
Destination Dominican Republic
Adventure republic
From motocross to kiteboarding, Cabarete is the adventure-sport capital of the Caribbean
By Bryen Dunn, Toronto Ontario :: info@bryendunn.com
Published: April 23, 2008 eye weekly
Think the Dominican Republic is the exclusive domain of beach bums seeking all-inclusive resorts? Think again. Windsurfers first discovered Cabarete in the 1980s, kiteboarders got in on the action in the 1990s and now this tiny village 30 minutes outside of Puerto Plata is an oasis of activity in water, on land and high in the sky.
Each year since 2001, Cabarete’s accommodating waves and smooth island winds have been attracting international competitors and spectators for the Cabarete Professional Kiteboard Riders Association (PKRA) World Cup, which takes place at Bozo Beach.
The rise in popularity of kiteboarding can be attributed to several factors, not the least of which is the adrenalin rush that comes with flying off a massive wave and flipping 360 degrees in midair. Last year, 16-year-old Dominican-born Ariel Corniel took first place, marking the first time a local has won this championship. This year, the event happens June 25-29 and offers a total of $40,000 in cash prizes.
Pablito Guzman’s Cabarete Classic, first held in 2006, has brought windsurfing back to the forefront as well. This year the event takes place July 17-20, and is expected to attract even greater crowds, making it one of the top 10 windsurfing destinations in the world. The semi-circular beach backdropped by hills of lush vegetation creates a unique thermal effect, blending the natural elements of wind and water needed for these sports. Windsurfers hit the beach in the early morning hours, while kiteboarders seek the directional change of winds that the afternoon brings.
When the sun goes down, the sporting goods get packed away and Cabarete’s nightlife begins. As one local website put it, “If you are not having fun in Cabarete, you must be dead.” There are many trendy restaurants, bars and nightclubs frequented by both locals and tourists. Dine at Blue Moon, Bliss or Café Pitu, then try Ono’s, Bambu or LAX for late night fun.
Getting around the region is easy, fun and affordable. You can rent a motorcycle for the day or negotiate a ride in a guagua (van shared with others) or on a moto-concho (multiple person motorcycle); taxis and local buses are also widely available.
There are several other adventure activities within easy reach of Cabarete. Wakeboarding is best done on the river Yasica, scuba diving and snorkelling can be found in nearby Sousua, and Encuentro is considered to be the best place to surf and boogie board. Deep-sea fishing and whale watching can be done within easy reach of the town centre and you can go horseback riding along the ocean coast or through the lush tropical mountain trails. The Cabarete Caves, part of the El Choco National Park, are also a must-see experience for their natural formations dating back over five million years. The guided tour includes an exhibition of Taino relics, left behind by the original pre-Columbian inhabitants of the island of Hispaniola.
Bike enthusiasts will find plenty of dirt roads for mountain biking, dirt biking, motocross and enduro-biking. There’s even a motocross track 5km outside of town where competitions are regularly held. A great day trip by bike is to do the round trip from Cabarete through Sabaneta, Moca, Tenares, Gaspar Hernandez and back to Cabarete. This route passes through the Cordillera Septentrional mountain area and the cigar-making capital Moca. Local bike shop MX Cabarete has all the necessary equipment and trail maps to take advantage of this biker’s paradise.
Los Charcos of Damajagua/Saltos De Damajagua, locally referred to as the 27 Falls hike, is the place to head for cascading waterfalls, fresh-water swimming and extreme rock climbing. Its location at the head of the 7km Bajaonico River along a geological fault makes it an ideal natural adventure playground. Most individuals hike up to between the sixth and eighth levels, and it’s only the truly adventurous who push the limits to reach the highest waterfall level. The hike between each waterfall level becomes more impressive as sky gets closer. The majority of hikers do this as a day excursion, but there are campsites for those wanting to spend the night beneath the stars. Although the lower trails can easily be done solo, it’s a good idea to hire a local guide or join a group when attempting the more challenging portion at the higher elevation.
Kayakers and whitewater-rafters head to the Rio Yaque del Norte, the longest river in the Caribbean. It’s located near the mountain village of Jarabacoa, where local outfitter Rancho Baiguate offers escorted tours and overnight lodging. The river excursion provides a thrilling experience with runs ranging from Level III to V depending on the rains and the time of year. The guides have named specific parts of the river based on what to expect: Mike Tyson, The Cemetery and Monica Lewinsky provide quick drops, darting rocks and wave swallows, respectively. Nearby, the mountain of Pico Duarte, the highest in the Caribbean, provides hardcore hikers the opportunity to trek to the top and back in a couple of days. Guided tours include food, sleeping bags, tents and a local guide.
Cabarete is also home base for Iguana Mama (www.iguanamama.com), the most well-known and respected adventure tour operator in the region. In fact, they are primarily responsible for developing all of the routes and trails that are used today. Their one-week “Mama Knows Best” tour combines a taste of almost everything the area has to offer, and includes all equipment, guide, airport transfer, transportation, accommodations and most meals.
While in the Dominican, be sure to drink back some Mama Juana, a locally concocted mixture of rum, red wine and honey infused with tree bark and herbs, and referred to locally as liquid Viagara. And, oh yeah, there’s always the option to lie on the beach, soak up the sun and dream about your next adventure.
VITAL STATS
It’s quite easy for a novice to plan a Dominican adventure without having
to book an all-inclusive vacation package or having prior sporting experience.
Expect to pay around $1,500 for a week including flights, accommodations, lessons
and equipment rentals. Most airlines allow windsurfing and kiteboarding gear
to be checked if packed properly.
Population: Nearly 10 million. Currency: Dominican Peso. Languages spoken: Spanish and English.
Getting there: Westjet Airlines offers non-stop Saturday departures out of Toronto.
Accommodations: The beach is lined with plenty of accommodation options from $20-a-night shared hostels to luxurious private villas. The Albatross and Valero Beach Resort are two centrally located, reasonably priced options.
Food: A combination of Spanish, Taino and African influences.
Music: Merengue, merengue típico (or perico ripiao) and bachata can all be heard in local dancehalls. Dominican rap, or “rap del patio” (street rap) is played in trendier nightclubs
Connectivity: Most hotels and bars, including beach bars, have Wi-Fi access. BD
LINKS TO GET YOU GOING
General:
www.godominicanrepublic.com
Cabarete adventure: ww.activecabarete.com
Kiteboarding:
ww.cabareteairforce.com
, www.kiteworldtour.com
Windsurfing:
www.cabaretewindsurfing.com
, www.cabarete-classic.com
Water Falls, jumping, sliding and climbing: www.27charcos.com
SPRING TRAVEL GUIDE
Medieval Mediterranean. Think
biking through rush-hour Toronto traffic is tough?
Try cycling the steep inclines of Croatia
By Bryen Dunn, Toronto Ontario :: info@bryendunn.com
Published: Eye Magazine - May 2007
Although most travel books spotlight the southern locales of Dalmatia and Dubrovnik as the tourist destinations of choice in Croatia, on a recent trip I opted to explore the northwestern region of Istria. It's a well-known summer destination for many Europeans, with the fresh sea breezes, bright sunshine and turquoise waters.
I flew into Venice, Italy, just across the Mediterranean Sea – an ideal way to arrive during the summer, when ferries connect both countries. But during the off-season, I had to make my way around the sea via trains and buses, viewing much of the countryside though jet-lagged eyes.
I finally arrived at the Adriatic seaside town of Porec, where I spent my first evening wandering the medieval cobblestone streets, popping into local pubs for a bottle of “pivo.” The next morning, I began my cycling journey along the coastline and up into the hillside surrounding villages. I set off with a trail map for a 45 km roundtrip route, but soon discovered not everything is as it appears, and I was often faced with the decision of which road to take. I was back in Porec shortly after noon, and took off on route No. 2 in the afternoon. In total, I clocked in 100 km combined. There's nothing more rewarding than discovering new territory by bike and foot.
Food in Istria is plentiful; while seafood is the obvious highlight – Pilchard (sardine) is a summertime specialty – vegetarians are also well accommodated. This is also the one region where the rare truffle can be found deep beneath the soil. Truffles were first discovered in the Mirna Valley back in 1929, and they continue to be gathered here with the help of dogs. Most sought-after is the Istrian white truffle, although the black truffle is highly regarded as well – it has a peppery flavour that nicely complements a pasta meal.
The Istria region is also well known for its and wines, cultivated from the vineyards that populate the countryside. Istria's wine list contains three distinct varieties: the whites of Malvazija (malmsey) and Muskat (muscatel), and the red teran. Agritourism is a great option for discovering local wines, as independent producers invite the public to learn about the winemaking process and purchase a bottle to go.
My next destination was Motovun, a walled 13th-century former fortress 300 metres above sea level and 45 km inland. This was one of the most thrilling rides I have ever taken: I gradually climbed my way through the mountain ranges, eventually reaching the summit and its spectacular view of Motovun touching the skyline beyond. I also enjoyed descending non-stop for 6 km back down the other side, reaching speeds of nearly 50 km/h. But my greatest challenge was ahead of me.
As I approached the town above, I was advised to catch a lift up with one of the van shuttles. I chose to ride straight up the daunting, steep, 2km roadway. As I peered down over the landscape below, I felt quite the accomplishment. I checked into the Hotel Kastel, the only one in this surprisingly modern and artistic town. (I later found out this town of 600 inhabitants hosts an annual international film festival.)
The next morning, I made my way to Rovinj, 60km back toward the coast. As I approached, I saw the standard church steeple in the horizon, high above the bustling harbour below. The town market was buzzing with the daily dealings of the locals. I parked the bike and trekked around, discovering the contrasts between the old and new towns.
As my cycling tour ended, I prepped for the kayaking portion of my journey. Leaving Istria and heading south approximately 500km along the Dalmatian coast was an absolutely awe-inspiring drive, as the roads veered through the mountain ranges by way of 5km tunnels hugging the cliff-side at each imposing turn.
Croatia has a recent history of unrest that still resonates with many travellers; it's been just over 10 years since the end of the civil war between Croatia and Serbia. Today the borders between the two countries are open and relations are relatively peaceful, though I noticed a fenced-off area along the motorway where entry is forbidden due to the large amount of live mines still present, and the background is dotted with bombed-out residences. The locals realize that international tourism is a much-needed lifeline for their economy, still in the recovery phase of post-Communism days.
My next destination was Trogir, situated midway between Istria and Dubrovnik. Kayaking among the 1,185 known islands just off the coast was perhaps the most memorable experience of my travels. Looking up from sea level at the roadways winding through the mountains made me marvel at how diverse the landscape actually is. These waters are a haven for divers in search of lost wreckages and spectacular barrier reefs. The expansive natural composition of the land provides an abundance of other adventure opportunities such as rock climbing, hang gliding and windsurfing. The mild weather is also a boon for unique flora and fauna.
The last day of my tour was spent exploring the port city of Split, the second largest after the capital of Zagreb. From here I boarded my Blue Line ship heading back to Italy, nearing the completion of my round-trip escapades. I had travelled thousands of kilometres by various modes of transportation in areas where English is not the primary language, and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. Sometimes, getting away from your daily routine is just what the body and mind needs to rejuvenate and re-energize.
Croatia Minutiae
GETTING THERE Skyservice has announced direct scheduled service
in Zagreb for the summer months beginning on June 20 starting
under $1000, tax inclusive. Details at www.skyservice.com. Split
has commuter flights from Germany and other parts of Europe. Pula
in Istria is now accessible via Stansted airport in England (60
minutes from Heathrow/Glasgow).
GOOD TO KNOW One Canadian dollar is equivalent to about 5 kuna. ATM machines are widely available. Electricity is 220V/50Hz using the standard European two-point plugs.
COSTS Accommodations, meals, drinks and bike/kayak rental can be done for less than $100 a day. Local transportation is inexpensive; a six-hour train ride is approximately $20.
CROATIA TOURIST INFO www.croatiatouristcenter.com, www.findcroatia.com, http://us.croatia.hr/Home, www.croatiatraveller.com, www.croatiaemb.net, www.croatia gateway.com
TOUR COMPANIES Active Journeys is a Canadian operator offering biking and hiking tours in Croatia (www.activejourneys.com); Falco Tours is a local operator offering kayaking and canoeing tours (www.falco-tours.com); Island Hopping is a local operator offering bike and boat tours (www.islandhopping.com).
FERRY SERVICE Between Croatia and Italy: www.blueline-ferries.com, www.venezialines.com.
TRAINS Individual tickets and passes are available online at www.railpass.com.
By Bryen Dunn, Toronto Ontario :: info@bryendunn.com
How to save the world one commute at a time
With loonie litres of gas being the norm and global warming the new
buzzwords, 2007 is shaping up to be the year Earth gets due respect.
I recently attended the Moving the Economy conference
– which brought several leading transportation specialists together
here in Toronto – and the consensus there was that, as much as
we like to view ourselves as a progressive city, there's much work to
be done on sustainable-transportation initiatives. How can we build
a transportation system that is affordable, efficient and offers various
modes of environmentally friendly transport that are capable of supporting
a large city population?
HUBBA HUBBA
Mobility/Intermodal HUBs are convenient locations where various forms
of transportation integrate, allowing commuters the opportunity to transfer
between one method and another with ease. For instance, having a taxi
stand, auto/bike-sharing facilities and TTC/GO stops all in one place
would make for a viable commuting opportunity. As well, having a single
monthly pass that allows travel not only on TTC and GO,
but also access to all suburban transit systems through a smart card
system, would simplify the process further. Adding in tourist information
kiosks, WiFi hotspots, healthy food alternatives and self-service ticketing
booths would complete this commuter dream.
A WORKING PLAN
There's no reason why all employers shouldn't be introducing sustainable-travel
practices for their employees. This can easily be achieved by providing
opportunities to carpool, providing shower facilities and secure locations
for bikes, introducing subsidies for public-transportation use, and
utilizing car-share programs for employees on business jaunts. Significant
savings can be obtained by arranging a carpooling system to and from
work. As well, with HOV (high occupancy vehicle) lanes slowly being
introduced, carpoolers have the luxury of bypassing gridlocked solo
commuters.
Car-sharing typically reduces individual usage by 50 per cent and each car replaces 20 owned vehicles on the road. Toronto has a couple of car-sharing organizations (see sidebar at right) that strive to reduce the number of cars on the streets by offering a viable alternative to owing a car. Energy-efficient cars can be rented by the hour for a nominal fee that includes gas and insurance. Once membership is secured, you have instant 24-hour access to vehicles throughout the city. Make the reservation by phone or online, receive your personal rental code and off you go.
CYCLISTS REJOICE
Toronto's BikeShare program had to pull the plug last
year due to lack of funding. The funky yellow two-wheelers are now gathering
dust in some storage location awaiting a revenue source to bring this
much needed alternative back. But after years of continuous community
activism, the West Toronto Railpath has been approved to move forward
with its first phase of construction. The initial 2 km multi-purpose
stretch from Cariboo Avenue to Dundas Street West will begin this summer,
with an anticipated completion date sometime in 2008. The asphalted
trail is considered a linear park complete with trees, flowers and artistic
structures. It will be accessible to all: cyclists, joggers, walkers,
wheelchairs, boarders and bladers.
The goal is to have the path run diagonally through the city between Dupont and King. However, phase two is not in the foreseeable future as CN Railway continues to hold out on releasing the track lands further south, in anticipation of a proposed airport link initiative. “There's still quite a bit of work to be done and it won't likely change cyclist commuting times at this point,” says Ward 18 Councillor Adam Giambrone. Switching hats to his TTC chair position, Giambrone also revealed other great news for cyclists, saying that “another 320 buses will be equipped with bike racks by the end of this year, with plans to have all buses done by 2010.”
The Toronto-Niagara Bike Train Initiative is a concept developed by cycle enthusiast Justin Lafontaine. Beginning in June, cyclists will have the opportunity to spend the day or weekend biking the trails of the Niagara Region. Once a month on selected weekends, VIA will be adding dedicated baggage cars with bike racks to their regular service schedule. Individuals can purchase round-trip tickets for $59, securing a seat, bike rack and an information package with trail maps and sightseeing opportunities. Initially the train will run directly between Union Station and downtown Niagara Falls, with en-route stops anticipated in the future. Lafontaine says, “We hope to also add Weekend Getaway Packages that will include attraction passes, guided winery tours and a dining directory.”
Vancouver based Ecodrive Technology Group Inc. offers a variety of motorized bikes, scooters and motorcycles, including their sleek Dash folding electric bike. These bikes are great for casual commuters for their ease of use and the fact that no vehicle licence is required to ride them on the streets. A Toronto distributor is scheduled to open at the end of this month.
Scooters and motorcycles are also great alternatives to cars, but a vehicle licence is mandatory. Be sure to check out the new Vespa retro lineup and the newly released three-wheeler that will have you bopping around town in style. For those who still feel the need to own a car, hybrid vehicles are a great alternative to the traditional gas guzzlers, as deadly emissions are reduced and fuel consumption is decreased.
GET INVOLVED
The Commuter Challenge is a national program taking
place June 3-9 that aims to increase the awareness of the benefits of
sustainable commuting and to encourage Canadians to take action by walking,
cycling, taking transit, carpooling or tele-working instead of driving
to work. The event coincides with Clean Air Day (June 6) and Canadian
Environment Week (June 3-9). Join an existing challenge or start one
of your own.
The Green Tourism Association works collaboratively with various groups to lead tourism in Ontario toward a sustainable future. They offer a selection of itineraries that explore the city through environmentally friendly means.
On May 31, the TourGreen Network Provincial Forum takes place at City Hall with the purpose of identifying opportunities to advance the green tourism movement at the regional and community level in Ontario.
The annual Bike Week activities begin May 28, and also make plans to attend Toronto's first Green Living Show happening the weekend of April 27 at Exhibition Place.
As we take time out of our busy day to sit back and enjoy our planet, think about what you can do differently the next time you head out the door. The slow food movement has caught on, and it's now time for the “slow mode movement” to take hold. What's the rush to get to work anyway?
Useful links
MOVING THE ECONOMY: www.movingtheeconomy.ca
NIAGARA BIKE TRAIN: www.biketrain.ca
BIKE PATHS: www.railpath.ca, www.trailscanada.com
CAR SHARE: www.autoshare.com, www.zipcar.com
CAR POOL: www.carpool.ca
ELECTRIC BIKES: www.e-cycle.ca, www.allwheels.ca
SCOOTERS: www.vespacanada.com
HYBRID CARS: www.hybridcars.com
COMMUTER CHALLENGE: www.commuterchallenge.ca, www.goforgreen.ca
Green Tourism: www.greentourism.ca, www.tourgreen.ca
GREEN LIVING SHOW: www.greenlivingshow.ca
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: www.gotransit.com, www.ttc.ca, www.yrt.ca, www.brampton.ca/transit, www.mississauga.ca/portal/residents/publictransit, www.durhamregiontransit.com
VIA Rail: www.via.ca
TAX INCENTIVE PETITION FOR CYCLISTS: www.gopetition.com/online/10170.html
BIKING INFORMATION: www.tbn.ca, http://bikingtoronto.blogspot.com, www.toronto.ca/cycling/index.htm, www.communitybicyclenetwork.org
BIKE FRIDAY GROUP COMMUTE: www.bikingtoronto.com/bikefriday
BIKE WEEK: www.bikingtoronto.com
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